Manjushri (Enryakuji) |
Yesterday I visited Kyoto’s Toji, The East Temple. It’s been on my to-visit list since completing
my pilgrimage of Shikoku several years ago. With a couple
of exceptions, the 88 temples along the 1200km route belong to Japan’s Shingon
school of Buddhism, a Tantric school established in the 9th century by Kukai. Toji was the master's base in Kyoto and the first Tantric
temple in the capital. Toji is also unique
for housing a large collection of rare sculpture and paintings, much of it
brought by Kukai from China.
Don't photograph this (I didn't, btw, but found it on the net). |
I found to my disappointment that visitors are prohibited
from photographing any of these pieces.
I can understand the need to protect old paintings from flash photography,
but not large wooden or bronze statues. Of
course, if you want to sell sets of postcards or art books, it might be in your
economic interest to prevent visitors from making their own images – even
sketches. Yes, sketching is also
prohibited.
Photography is a process of lavishing visual attention. You look this way and that, up and under,
with long lens and short, wide focus and narrow, to see what you can see
through the camera. Sometimes you
discover interesting perspectives or unusual details. And when you get home to the computer you may
find an image that while perhaps technically inferior to the work on the
commercial postcards has lasting resonance because it represents your gaze and
a record of your time with the subject. Photographing
religious objects is something akin to a religious practice, a practice of visual
devotion, one I didn't get to experience at Toji, nor today at Enryakuji (but
for a small Manjushri shrine -featured above- which I found was also similarly marked with a sign banning image-making, but tucked into a corner where I didn't notice it until after I was done).
I wonder if Japan’s temple managers might consider
adopting India’s practice of charging an extra fee for the use of cameras? That way they accrue additional funds while
the photographers can take away their own images – and maybe even still buy a
commercial product at the gift shop.
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